Ask a Healdsburg resident to describe this hamlet in northern Sonoma County and the reply will likely be couched in temporal terms: old Healdsburg or new? Before 2001, the town had family restaurants and local joints and just a sprinkling of visitors from far away. Then came the swanky Hotel Healdsburg and chef Charlie Palmer's acclaimed restaurant Dry Creek Kitchen - followed by boutiques, Michelin-starred eateries and, of course, tourists. Today Healdsburg is a remarkable synthesis of old and new - of small-town friendliness and big-city chic - of very good wine and equally good food. Here's what to do in Healdsburg and the surrounding valleys of northern Sonoma in just under three days.